Richard Ford’s visit to Gibraltar, 1845

We continue with Ford’s book as he gives us his impressions on religion in Gibraltar:

The “Rock,” in religious toleration, or rather indifference, is again the antithesis of Spain. Here all creeds are free, and all agree in exclusive money-worship. There are now two bishops here; the older is a Roman Catholic, and appointed by the Pope in partibus infidelium. The Sa. Maria is his church; it is poor and paltry, and very unlike the gorgeous pantheons of the peninsula. Romanism stands abashed before the Bible, and, as in England, puts away her images and superstitions, and brings forth her many redeeming qualities. The peaceful state of rival creeds was, however, sadly disturbed by a Dr. Hughes, a Whig appointment, who coming as R. C. bishop from Ireland, introduced, in 1839, his patrons’ infection of agitation, and disputed the power of the civil courts. The law, however, administered by that upright judge Barron Field, our good friend, was not to be defied, as this “traverser” discovered during some months’ imprisonment. The former and sound policy was, only to appoint a foreigner to see this, who would simply do his religious duty without any taint of home politics.

Gibraltar, in good old Roman Catholic times, had its local saints and miracles, like every other Spanish place. Consult portillo, by iv. Sevilla, 1634, and Ayala. To them the Spaniards fled when attacked by Adm. Rooke. Now Eliott and Boyd are the English tutelars, and the bastions and galleries are their Milagros.

Image: 18th Century Plan of Gibraltar showing location of Iglesia Mayor and San Francisco (the Convent).